Dewakan by Chef Darren Teoh glenmarie


Over the years, I have since then start to venture into modern casual dining. This is inspired from a good friend of mine where, our taste bud need some enhancement where we need to sample food from a great chef. Then slowly learn to identify on the taste and ingredients. Since then started to pay visit to one or two reputable restaurant whenever I travel aboard. With an impression, it is hard for local chef to come out good food with local ingredients till I tested out Chef Darren Teoh whom is running Dewakan at KDU university college at Glenmarie, Shah Alam have totally change my perception.

On that night, my friend told me how the word Dewakan came about is from a combination of two Malay words, “Dewa” which means god and “Makan” which means eat hence this word is born.

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To hunt for this place would be a challenge as Dewakan is located right inside KDU college at Glenmarie and to look for this college is also a challenge.

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I reach early on that night as I was seated at the lounge area, with huge sofa and you are given menu for the night. It is rather simple where you would want to go for 5 course or 10 course, to enjoy Chef culinary skills, I was told to opt for 10 course.

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First given fresh bake bread with home made salted butter.

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Kick off with first snacks that presented in a pot of dry bonzai with edible leaves pair with Budu Mayonise which is made from a fish sauce product from Terengganu. The leaf is paper thin and very crispy. Dipping with budu sauce is amazingly good as you can taste a hint of kerpok lekor fish sauce and hint of seaweed taste from the leaf.

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Right before the main course start, we were serve with Mango Curry Soup as a palate cleanser. In my mind, this dish does not gel, however it do smells good. Light, airy with with a hint of curry and sweet mango aroma end is a perfect unique balance of it.

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Lets kick off with first dish – Blue Mackerel – cured mackerel, ulam raja, pomelo, local flowers. Beautifully presented as like flower booming season. Smells closely will give you different aroma of flower frangrant and also hint of spices in between. Hidden right below is a perfectly cook soft blue mackerel. One of a great start for the dish as the balance of flavour from different types of flower.

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Chef in action.

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Match with its name as Roast Mushrooms is filled with  king oyster mushroom, green curry paste, yoghurt, dried mackerel. We were taught to eat from right to left as the lighter taste begins from there, starting off with dried mackerel. As you eat along, each little pieces builds your palate up from lighter taste of flavour, texture and also aroma.

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This piece is pretty unique to me as Braised Aubergine – aubergine braised in mushroom stock, jackfruit seeds, black bean sauce and garlic emulsion. It is a clever combination of flavour where emulsion of garlic is not too strong, yet you can taste a little hint of black bean sauce, little sweetness from jackfruit seeds and mushroom is perfectly done up. Amazing dish.

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This look rather simple as this Home Made Noodle – steam ming prawns, brined radish, dried vegetables, cold prawn broth. Love the texture of the noodle as it is chewy and silky smooth. Broth is little cold that give you a nice taste of soy and after you mix it, it is a well balance dish with the greens and prawn cubes is cook to perfection where slightly solid and chewy.

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Piked Conger – Smoked pike conger, custard, fermented long beans relish, roasted okra, clams foam. Foam is aromatic and balance off with custard that is so soft that nearly melt in your tongue, where fermented long beans pairs so well with its foam smokiness.

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When this was serve, this is a pretty good piece of a Duck – roast duck breast, duck leg rillette, beetroots, “blood” sauce only then to realise its local duck from Bidor. Such a perfect piece of meat that cook to how it shall be. Crispy duck skin added onto the aroma of it and meat is juicy and tender. Enjoying every single bite of it especially with the little special made asam to balance of the taste of the duck that gives you a little sourish end.

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Another main dish that I enjoy is their Quail – Roasted quail with masala spice, beef, “serunding”, candle nut, century egg. Love how chef play with spices and especially serunding and mayo that gives the whole taste such a well balance yet not overpower on each other. You can taste the juiciness of quail meat and when mix with spices and mayo and a sip of red wine it is a perfect match.

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Mulberries – Mulberry jam, cardamon ganache, cashew brittles, pucuk gajus, mulberry snow are presented like a flat terrarium with a plastic base that is all perfectly arrange with woods and dry flowers. Presented on top is a palate cleanser that Mulberries is the hero where it is also grown locally. Sourish enough that did not over power pucuk gajus and sorbet is perfect to its condition.

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Gula Melaka – gula melaka marquise, sour meringue, pulut ice cream. Pulut ice cream is good where inside the ice cream is a well balance of little taste of vanilla with hint of coconut yet slightly chewy with pulut.

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chocolate Tart – warm chocolate tart, caramelized jackfruit and gandum ice cream.

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Lastly we have Ice cream potong in 3 different flavours.

It is an amazing food experience where chef do build your taste bud up from light to heavy and totally impress where most of the ingredients used are source locally. Travellers and foodies from other countries, this place might be a challenge for you to hunt except you have to ask for taxi or Uber.

Menu do change every quarter and it is a place worth to give it a try if it is within your budget. Do remember to book your spot especially on weekend .

-= KA CHING =-

Food rating 8.5/10 , great technique and taste! -Stamped-

-WARNING –This is based on my individual taste. Try it at your own risk-

Lower Ground Floor,
KDU University College,
Utropolis Glenmarie,
Jalan Kontraktor U1/14,
Seksyen U1, Shah Alam.
Tel: +03-5565 0767
Lunch: Mon to Fri – 12 Noon to 2:30pm
Dinner: Thur to Sat – 7pm to 9pm

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